By Karlis Elmanis · 26 April 2026
Your electric gate won't open. You've pressed the remote, tried the keypad, and pushed the button on the wall. Nothing. The motor might be humming, clicking, or completely silent. Your car is stuck behind (or in front of) a gate that refuses to move.
Before you panic, here are the 7 most common reasons an electric gate stops opening — and what you can do about each one.
1. Flat Remote Battery
Symptoms: Remote clicks but nothing happens. Keypad or wall button still works.
The most common cause — and the easiest fix. Remote batteries last 1-2 years depending on usage. Replace the battery (usually a CR2032 coin cell) and the remote should work immediately. If it doesn't, the remote may need re-programming.
What to do: Replace the battery. If that doesn't work, try a spare remote if you have one. If no remotes work but the keypad does, the issue is the remotes, not the gate.
2. Power Supply Failure
Symptoms: Nothing works — no motor sound, no lights on the control board, no response from any control.
The gate has lost power. Check your consumer unit (fuse board) for a tripped MCB on the gate circuit. Also check for a local isolator switch near the gate — these sometimes get turned off accidentally by gardeners or builders.
What to do: Check the consumer unit for tripped switches. Reset any tripped MCB. If it trips again immediately, there's an electrical fault — call an engineer.
3. Photocell Obstruction
Symptoms: Gate opens but won't close. Or gate closes then immediately reopens.
Photocell sensors create an invisible beam across the gate opening. If something breaks the beam — a leaf, a cobweb, a displaced sensor, or even low winter sun — the gate thinks there's an obstruction and refuses to close. This is a safety feature working correctly, just triggered by the wrong thing.
What to do: Check both photocell units (usually small boxes on the gate posts, about 40cm from the ground). Wipe them clean. Check if anything is blocking the line between them. If the light on the photocell doesn't change when you wave your hand in front, the sensor may be faulty.
4. Motor Failure
Symptoms: You hear a humming or buzzing sound but the gate doesn't move. Or complete silence when the motor should be running.
The motor itself has failed — either a burnt-out capacitor (common, cheap fix), a stripped gear (moderate fix), or a fully seized motor (replacement needed). Motor failures are more common on gates that haven't been serviced regularly.
What to do: This needs an engineer. Don't try to force the gate open with the motor engaged — you'll cause further damage. Use the manual release (see below) to disengage the motor and move the gate by hand.
5. Control Board Fault
Symptoms: Erratic behaviour — gate opens halfway, reverses unexpectedly, makes partial movements, or responds to some controls but not others.
The control board is the brain of the gate system. Water ingress, power surges, and age cause component failures. A faulty board can produce all sorts of unpredictable behaviour.
What to do: This needs an engineer. Control boards are repairable in many cases — a full replacement isn't always necessary.
6. Mechanical Obstruction
Symptoms: Motor runs but gate only moves a short distance before stopping or reversing.
Something is physically blocking the gate. On swing gates, check for debris in the hinge area, a displaced ground stop, or vegetation growing into the swing path. On sliding gates, check the track for stones, leaves, or ice.
What to do: Clear any obvious obstructions. If the gate still won't complete its travel, the track may be misaligned or a hinge may have seized — call an engineer.
7. Safety Edge / Pressure Strip Triggered
Symptoms: Gate starts moving then immediately stops and reverses, even with nothing in the way.
Safety edges are rubber strips on the leading edge of the gate that detect contact. If the strip is damaged, waterlogged, or the wiring has degraded, it sends a constant "obstruction detected" signal and the gate won't complete its movement.
What to do: Check the rubber strip along the gate's closing edge for visible damage, splits, or water bubbles. If it looks damaged, it needs replacing — call an engineer.
How to Manually Open Your Gate While You Wait
Most electric gates have a manual release that disengages the motor so you can push the gate open by hand.
CAME Motors
Look for a triangular key slot on the motor housing. Insert the key (supplied with the gate) and turn. The motor disengages and the gate swings freely.
BFT Motors
Release lever or key on the motor body. On underground BFT motors, the access point is at ground level behind a small cover plate.
Nice Motors
Key release on the motor body. Turn the key and the gate moves freely.
Sliding Gates
Most sliding gate motors have a lever that disengages the drive gear. Pull or turn the release and slide the gate along the track by hand.
Can't find the manual release? Call Karlis on 07542 024681 — he can often talk you through it over the phone.
When to Call an Engineer
Call if:
- You've checked the basics (power, remote battery, photocells) and the gate still won't move
- The motor makes an unusual sound (grinding, clicking, buzzing without movement)
- The gate is behaving erratically (partial movements, unexpected reversals)
- You can see physical damage to the motor, control box, or wiring
- You smell burning or see smoke from the motor housing
Karlis covers Horsham, Brighton, Crawley, Bromley, Sevenoaks, Esher, and all of Sussex, Surrey, Kent, and South London.
Standard repair: £225+VAT | Emergency same-day: £270+VAT
Call: 07542 024681 | Book online